Kerala, South India
Kerala's cliff beach, where the Arabian Sea breaks against red laterite rock and the backwaters begin ten kilometres inland
Highlights
Varkala is different from every other beach destination in Kerala. The beach does not announce itself from a distance, you walk to the edge of a red laterite cliff and the Arabian Sea is suddenly below you, a long arc of beach at the base of the rock with waves breaking hard against the shore. The cliff path running along the top is lined with beach shacks, small guesthouses, yoga studios, surf schools and cafes offering food from four continents. It has a specific atmosphere that either suits you immediately or does not.
The destination grew slowly from the 1990s onward, when travellers moving south from Goa discovered a quieter, less developed alternative. It has filled in considerably since, but the basic character has held, informal, young, affordable, and oriented around the beach and the cliff path rather than any particular landmark or heritage site.
Papanasam Beach at the base of the cliff is notable for natural mineral springs that emerge at the shoreline, a geological quirk that gives the beach its name – Papanasam means the destroyer of sins, and the springs have drawn pilgrims to this stretch of coast for centuries alongside the Janardhana Swamy Temple on the cliff above. The temple, one of the oldest Vishnu temples in Kerala, is a significant pilgrimage destination for Indian guests. Non-Hindu visitors are generally not permitted inside.
The waves at Varkala are stronger and more consistent than at Kovalam, which makes it a poor choice for nervous swimmers but a good one for surfers. Several surf schools operate from the beach, teaching beginners through to intermediate level. The surf season runs roughly October to March, which aligns with the general best-time window for the destination.
Around ten kilometres from Varkala, the Paravoor backwater lake and mangrove network offers kayaking through a quieter, less visited waterway than the main Alleppey backwater circuit. Several local operators run mangrove kayaking programs here. It is a half-day addition that works well for guests who want the backwater experience without the houseboat crowds, or who have already done Alleppey and want something at a different scale.
Varkala’s accommodation leans heavily towards budget guesthouses, small boutique properties and long-stay apartments suited to digital nomads and travellers spending several weeks rather than two nights. Leisure resorts in the conventional sense are relatively limited. The beach shacks on the cliff path offer genuinely good food across Kerala, North Indian and continental options, and the informal dining culture is a large part of what makes the destination work.
Varkala resonates strongly with younger travellers, young couples and young families. The vibe is relaxed, independent and low-key. For guests looking for a resort experience with services and managed activities, Kovalam or Marari are better suited. For guests who want to slow down on a cliff, eat well, learn to surf, and explore the backwaters nearby, Varkala delivers that reliably.
Varkala works naturally as a two-night stop between Alleppey and Thiruvananthapuram on a southern Kerala circuit. Guests travelling from the backwaters south towards the capital can break the journey here, use the beach days to decompress after a busy itinerary, and continue to Thiruvananthapuram and Kovalam refreshed. For guests who connect with the place, it can easily extend to a longer beach stay of five to seven nights.
October to March. The monsoon brings rough seas that rule out swimming and surfing, and the cliff path loses much of its appeal in heavy rain. The post-monsoon months from October bring calmer water, reliable surf conditions and the best weather for the Paravoor kayaking.
